Saturday, December 4, 2010

Thailand Do's & Don’ts

First of all, nothing can prepare you for Thailand.

What to pack:

Travel light!  Wearing footwear such as sandals will negate the need to carry socks.  In fact, you could easily arrive with just the clothes you are wearing, plus a few essentials.  If you are of average build the sweat shops of Asia provide bargain clothing that can be bought & discarded for cheaper than the cost of a load of laundry.  It is impossible to dress even semi formally due to the unbearable heat, so there is no need whatsoever to bring anything larger than a carry on sized shoulder bag.  As long as you shower twice a day, a couple of t-shirts and a comfy pair of board-shorts, worn commando style, will be perfectly fine for many days.  

Travelling in Thailand, you will find yourself in many situations when carrying little luggage is beneficial.  You won’t require the services of porters or need to use bus/train luggage stows.  You won’t have to wait at the carousels at the airport & you can skip the bag drop queues, by checking in online.  You will laugh when you see tourists trying to roll massive suitcases along narrow uneven sidewalks that often double as scooter parking lots.
                                             
Next time we visit, we will only bring:
  • The clothes on our back
  • A net-book computer & travel adapter
  • A couple of pairs of underwear (optional)
  • Reservation numbers & travel documents
  • Camera & charger
  • Sunglasses
  • Nail clippers
  • Tweezers

Any liquids or repellents you may need can be purchased cheaply at the 7/11.

Eating in Thailand:

By learning to love traditional spicy Thai meals, you will save a lot of money on food.  Start off vegetarian only, to allow your stomach to become conditioned to the fatty sauces & heavily seasoned dishes, (unless you are lucky like Bec & have a cast iron stomach).
Good clean vegetarian food can be difficult to find in Bangkok, but easily found everywhere else in Thailand.  Remember the phrase for no meatMai ow (Kha/Khap)”.  The best restaurants are not flashy at all, but will be on the side of the road open air styles with plastic tables and chairs.  You can bet your money that a beautiful looking restaurant with wooden tables and chairs surrounded in lush green gardens with ambient lighting will provide the Farang with tasteless western Thai food.  Avoid them at all costs! The restaurants you will want to visit are the opposite of what we have described.  These restaurants will be filled with local customers, condiments at each table, well worn menus written in Thai & English, & friendly staff.  Try different items, & find out what suits you.  Use the condiments to bring your meal to life, sugar & soy sauce will help to tone down a dish that is too spicy.  Embrace the spicy flavor & you will be rewarded with a cooling sweat afterwards.  Beer never tasted so good.  If you can’t find suitable food, an instant noodle cup available at the 7/11 (hot water included) is a trusted last resort.

Accommodation:

Especially in Thailand, quality has its price, & a few extra baht goes a long way in terms of comfort & luxury.  Consider four stars to be the minimum if you wish to enjoy:  an in room safe, clean fresh towels, air con, a fridge, DVD player & internet access.  After checking in, always read the hotel directory.
Four star hotels are well staffed, secured & patrolled.  Check out hotels on tripadvisor.com for true reviews & take advantage of low rates by booking through the internet.  Requesting a room on a high floor ensures that you will receive privacy from other guests including mosquitoes.  At dawn & dusk, insects can be an issue but are otherwise no big deal.
Many five star hotels provide free extras besides unrivaled luxury, such as daily fruit, biscuits and treats, free transfers & shuttles to your next destination.  Breakfast standards are very high throughout Thailand; there is something for everyone, herbivores and carnivores alike.  Don’t expect miracles from a four star hotel, if you can afford to stay in a five star hotel you will not be disappointed.  Keep your room tidy, always lock your bags & leave a few coins for the maid when you are checking out.  This will give you the strength required to ignore the exploited child beggars, landmine victims & sadly, blind busking singers.

Culture shock:
 
Prepare to be surprised by the unexpected.  Do not visit Thailand with pre-conceived expectations; keep an open mind & most importantly, a cool heart.  Thais are a deferential & submissive people.  This can result in unexpected situations such as people ignoring queues & cutting in front of you at the supermarket.  Do not expect the cashier to cause a scene & ‘lose face’.  If the rude bully is only buying cigarettes is it really that big a deal?  In all situations a smile will help resolve issues faster than losing your temper.  From bartering to dining, maintain a relaxed attitude & have fun or Sanook.  Do not act like the old man we saw telling a taxi tout to ‘fuck off’.  People have to buy rice somehow, after all.  Yes it can be infuriating to be asked if you want to buy a suit, massage or Tuk-tuk a thousand times, however a polite smile & ‘Kha’ (female)  or ‘Khap’ (Male) is enough to let them know you are not interested.  Think about it, all of the touts are there because of tourism.  You can’t blame them for trying & it beats dealing with the gypsy beggars of Europe any day.
Losing face is to be avoided at all costs, as is shouting, pointing the sole of your foot, touching some-ones head, public displays of affection or immodesty & bumping into people.
Don’t be greedy.  As a wealthy visitor, it is your place in Thai culture to not grab every last baht from the change tray when eating out or catching a cab.

Safety & travel:

Thailand is generally a very safe place, but as with all countries, crime & danger exists.  Be wary of well spoken Thais who strike up conversation.  Do not consider this a chance to mix with the real people.  Thais are a shy race & will not approach strangers.  Deception is common & you must take extreme care when making transactions.  Carry the minimum cash possible & leave the thousand baht notes in your hotel room safe along with your credit cards & passport (a photocopy of your passport should be carried at all times).  Only chain stores such as 7-11 & McDonalds can be expected to give correct change from a five hundred baht note or higher.
Don’t be a victim.  Watch out for the strong beer which, combined with heatstroke may affect your judgment.  Remember that nothing is ‘free’.
Beware of hidden tax charges in bars & restaurants.
Stick to well lit main roads & watch out for maniac drivers.  One way street signs & red traffic lights have absolutely no meaning.  Try to cross busy roads with other people.  It may be easier to catch a minivan or taxi despite the extra cost, if you are carrying your belongings to another hotel, rather than waiting for a cheaper songtwo.  A Songtwo driver is unlikely to speak English well, or know your hotel location.  Open air buses & taxis are also targets for motorcycle thieves.  Bag snatching does occur so wear your bag over your shoulder & keep your wits about you.
Travel throughout Thailand is a highly organised business, but we would stick to flying for longer distances.  Taxi’s are generally ok but it may take a few goes to find one who will use the meter. “Meetoe OK, Khap?”.  The meter is ridiculously cheap.  Genuine Taxi cars are not more than five years old.  Carry maps to your hotel, written in Thai.
Tour operators are a dime a dozen throughout Thailand.  Check between three or so different outlets to compare rates for the same tour if you are considering snorkeling, for example.  Prices vary & so does the service.  Some tours are rubbish so check it out online first.  "Village of the long necks? or how about an Elephant circus show?"
Plenty of people hire scooters & use Tuk-tuks, but we would not.  Except in Phuket, where the Tuk-tuk mafia have a stranglehold on transport.
The Bangkok Sky-Train is excellent, safe, clean, fast & cheap.  In all cases it pays to speak a little Thai & hope that you don’t appear to be ‘fresh off the boat’, as they say.

Hygiene: 

Shower & bathe often.  Drink the complimentary bottled water.  Don’t wear perfume – it attracts insects.  Repellent is useful for the legs & arms.  Groom yourself & maintain a tidy appearance – face is everything.  If in doubt, pump the brake – particularly with regards to food & drink.
Use the Bidet hose.  Flush the loo before you use the Bidet hose.  Look-out for the nearest rest-room.  Keep change handy for the rest-room and carry toilet paper or tissues.  Shopping malls have excellent food courts, facilities, & air conditioning.  Use the provided waste paper bin for toilet paper & avoid an embarrassing charge-able blockage. 

General advice:

Drink lots of fluids including alcohol.  Read the English newspapers.  Investigate websites such as Wikitravel & Bangkokscams.com .  Research everything & save websites for future reference.  Avoid solicitors & touts.  Show respect for the king & his currency, to step on a coin would be akin to stepping on his face.  Rely on your gut instinct, physical & psychological.  Talk to other tourists.
Don't bother going to Khao San Road in Bangkok.
Do not travel alone, or you will be harassed non-stop.  Make reservations.  Don’t buy DVD’s of new movies; slightly older movies represent excellent quality & value.  Check that genuine replica t-shirt for spelling mistakes.  Bartering is a science,  whisper cheeky offers if other buyers are within earshot.
Finally, Thailand is not for those with a weak stomach.  Offensive odors seep into your airways & linger on the tongue.

Price list: 1 NZD = 23 BHT

  • T-shirt / Singlet:  150 BHT
  • Thai meal:  25 – 60 BHT
  • Board shorts:  200 BHT
  • 4 – 5 star Hotel room includes breakfast:  1500 – 2500 BHT
  • Cornetto: 20 BHT
  • Can of beer:  25 BHT
  • Bottled water:  7 BHT
  • DVD movie:  50-80 BHT
  • Pashmina:  100 - 150 BHT
  • Ear-rings:  25 – 50 BHT
  • Marlboros: 78 BHT
  • 5 minute taxi fare:  40 - 60 BHT (40 BHT flag-fall)
  • 30 minute Pedicure/massage: 150 - 200 BHT
  • Minivan airport transfer to hotel:  150 BHT pp
Geoff & Rebecca would like to thank:

Our hosts, the people of Thailand, for their unfailing kindness, helpfulness, understanding, patience & hospitality.
Our parents & families for their constant contact, support, love & goodwill.
Geoff's brother John for giving us worthy cultural advice & invaluable Thai language books & CD's.
All of our friends who extended warm wishes via Facebook & email.
Jamie from Flight Centre Westfield who patiently helped us arrange our holiday airfares.
Thai Air, Qantas & Bangkok Airways.
All of our magnificent hotels, especially: The Glow Trinity Bangkok, The Sunset Beach Resort Patong, The Sugar Palm Grand Phuket, Kirikayan Luxury Resorts Phuket, The Dusit D2 Chiang Mai, De Naga Chiang Mai, The Amari Orchid Pattaya & The Grand FourWings Convention Hotel.  

    
Negotiate the fare before entering


Silom - The best district in Bangkok



This one just felt right

Mind you keep your clothes out of harm's way

Pay after you board the boat, smooth talkers will try & rip you off at the dock


The Sugar Palm Grand in Phuket - Hedonism 

PS: There were so many more photos we wanted to add for this entry but we have reached our limit of available free space...meh

Friday, December 3, 2010

Temples of Chiang Mai Vs Sex Tourists of Pattaya.

Warning this blog entry contains sexual references and sordid information gathered from the books “Only 13”, and “Sex Slaves, the trafficking of women in South East Asia”.

These two cities are comparably different yet so alike.  They both have the capacity to make you stop and stare in wonder at the awe inspiring sights and marvel at the natural wonders…

Chiang Mai:
Chiang Mai is an ancient city.   Inside Chiang Mai's city gates are more than 30 temples dating back to 1296 AD, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, umbrellas and pagodas covered in gold. 

Each Thai temple consists of two parts: The Phutthawat and the Sangha-wat.

The Phutthawat is the area which is dedicated to Buddha. It generally contains several buildings:

  • Chedi - also known as a stupa it is mostly seen in the form of a gold bell-shaped tower.
  • Prang - the Thai version of Khmer temple towers.
  • Ubosot or Bot - the Ordination Hall and most sacred area of a Wat.
  • Wihan - it is the assembly hall where monks and believers congregate.
  • Mondop - A Mondop is a specific square or cruciform based building.
  • Ho trai - the Temple Library or Scriptures Depository.
  • Sala - an open pavilion providing shade and a place to rest.
  • Sala kan prian - a large, open hall where people can hear sermons or receive religious education.
  • Ho rakang - this bell tower is used for waking the monks and to announce the morning and evening ceremonies.
The Sanghawat contains the living quarters of the monks. It also lies within the walls surrounding the whole temple compound.   It houses most of the functional buildings such the kitchen and the sanitary buildings.

Bec spent several days exploring and investigating these elaborate temples.  Some places felt very special and She was able to sit quietly while closely observing locals, monks, their behaviors, and rituals.



























Pattaya:
Pattaya is home to hundreds of Thapae bars, (Low ceiling, open front bars filled with breathtakingly gorgeous prostitutes trafficked from South East Asia), much to the liking of desperate old, fat, bald men & the company that produces Viagra. 
To say Pattaya resembles a sausage fest would be an understatement.  There are roughly nine men to each woman here.  Thousands of men come to Pattaya each and every day in search of ‘love’ or for a ‘short time’. 
Compared with any other country, Thailand provides value for money in every sense.  For a night with a Thai prostitute you can expect to pay between 1000 - 2000 Bhat $50 - $100 NZD.  After witnessing this disturbing scene it is hard to believe that prostitution & pornography is actually banned in Thailand, go figure!  When you choose a girl, you simply pay a ‘bar fine’ & take her back to your hotel, police bribery is rife especially in Pattaya.
On our arrival to our hotel we witness countless couples fitting this obvious description in the lobby, the bar, and lounging by the pool.  On a tour of our room the concierge showed us our mini bar equipped with alcohol, crisps, insect repellent and condoms.  Sweet, we are sorted.

Wandering through the streets, the shopping malls, or sitting at a restaurant is an education in itself.  Here you can watch sex tourists and their prostitutes enjoying ‘the girl friend experience’.  Walking hand in hand throughout the mall the girl points out items of interest and the tourist opens his wallet.  They can either be seen having a drink, grabbing a bite to eat, or at the local supermarket stocking up on supplies for the night.  On the odd occasion you can see both parties enjoying themselves but the majority of the time the prostitutes seem to be elsewhere staring off into the distance.

What can we do?

Well apart from paying 30,000 prostitutes 1000 baht per day for the rest of their lives, nothing!
Most of these women are illiterate and cannot read or write.  Most did not attend school past the age of eight as school is not free in Thailand and the fees increase as the children get older. 
Many girls as young as twelve are forced into prostitution by their own families as they are so poor and debt ridden.  Some are groomed for prositution from childhood and others are physically coered.  These young girls become the family’s main source of income.  A virgin can be sold from as little as 10,000 – 20,000 baht depending on their age, beauty, and whiteness.  A drought can result in an influx of virgins as families need to sell their daughters in order to eat.  Basically, in poverty stricken areas of Thailand a girl is born and raised to be a prostitute while a son receives all the benefits of a western child.  While the girls are out selling their bodies and sending their income home for their family the boys are playing with the latest toys and gadgets and receiving an education at the expense of his sister.  Unless these girls can raise their families out of poverty history will repeat again and again.

South East Asia, Thai society and their government are still operating in the Stone Age and choose to ignore the truth.  It makes us sick.  We leave Pattaya with a feeling of hopelessness in our hearts.




















Friday, November 26, 2010

Happy happy Chiang Mai


Chiang Mai, city of elephants & splendor, is our location for nine relaxing days.
The Loi Krathong festival is in full swing as we arrive.  Loosely translated, this means a nonstop fireworks party for 72 hours, thousands of lanterns being released skyward and flower boats sent down the river.
The fireworks are soo much better here, Double happys, Tom thumbs, & skyrockets, ignited by young & old.  Some school kids yell out "Stop its a bomb!" as an ear splitting cracker explodes on the footpath in front of us.
The parades stretch for miles.  Utes with jumper leads provide electricity for the floats carried by Thai boys.  Thousands of people & no one bumps us as we gorge on banana Roti.
Our hotel doesn't provide breakfast so Rebecca is dispatched to gather a chocolate Roti but the streets are deserted.  She resorts to the trusty 7-11 & returns bearing cornflakes & UHT milk.  It turns out that shops generally open at midday & close after midnight.
The following nights are a blur of night bazaars & haggling sessions.  By perfecting the slow walk away method, you can negotiate rock bottom deals.
With more daytime hours to spare, Rebecca enrolls us into the Siam cookery school.
Class starts with a tour of the local market & a lesson in Thai ingredients.  Our tutor decides to buy some fresh (still swimming) Snapper & we witness a horrific execution by the fishmonger.  Thank goodness we hadn't eaten that morning...
Nancy, our voluptuous Thai chef teaches us seven dishes of our choice, including: spring rolls, spicy soup, curries & sticky rice.  The school has a lovely outdoor area where you can lay about in the sun & groan with satisfaction.  Geoff can vouch for it.
Chiang Mai is also home to the best zoo in Thailand.
It even has a 7-11 shop right by the White tiger enclosure, where you can buy a noodle cup & they have a boiling water kiosk too.  Discover amazing Thailand!
The big cats are spectacular & seem to eye Geoff up for lunch, baring their teeth & pacing to & fro.  A black jaguar reminds us of our mog.  Aw we miss him vewy much.
There is a mono-rail to help you cover two hundred acres of tropical forest, but we opted to walk & came across three young Manhoots cleaning a pair of elephants.  Against our instincts for animal welfare, we take the chance to go for a trek on the elephants back.  After all, the ride was only fifteen minutes & no-one else was around.  The giant beast took a fancy to Bec & they had an intimate moment staring into one-another's eyes, sharing deep thoughts.  Bec is currently looking into elephant adoption.













Unhygienix

Fowl




Underbite much









911 what is your emergency?









Elephants going nana for bananas




Best friends 4EVA